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Some
HOT Braking News!
INTRODUCTION
Backing a trailer, launching a boat and trailering it are perhaps the most intimidating aspects of boating to many newcomers. Done properly, it can become quite easy. New boat owners often need instruction in proper launching and loading methods.
All boaters need to practice common courtesy at the ramp! Poor ramp etiquette is a common problem in some parks. Park officers spend much time at the ramp directing traffic and cooling tempers. Proper ramp etiquette can be the start or finish of a pleasant boat outing.
Below are some tips and procedures to keep your outing successful and pleasant.
PREPARING FOR LAUNCH
Before backing your boat and trailer to the ramp, prepare the boat for launch.
Find a quiet spot in the parking lot away from the launch lane traffic. Some ramps provide lanes to "prep" the boat for the water ("make ready" area).
Remove all tie-downs except the winch hook attached to the bow eye of the boat. Remove any outboard or stern-drive tie-downs or supports. Anything that can be detached from the trailer should be placed inside the tow vehicle.
Stow needed gear and required equipment in the boat (Personal flotation devices, fire extinguisher, signaling devices, etc.). Make a thorough pre-launch check of accessories (engine compartment blower, bilge pump, lights, battery switches, etc.) to ensure they are working.
Place any maneuvering aides equipment (boat hooks, paddles, fenders, anchors, etc.) within easy reach. Store lines where they are handy. It is a good idea to secure at least one mooring line to a bow cleat.
Turn on the blower (if equipped).
Check the boat over carefully one more time. THE BOW EYE WINCH LINE SHOULD STILL BE SECURED and the engine raised, though ready to be lowered. The blower is running and must run a minimum of 4 minutes before starting the engine. Everything else is ready to launch.
AT THE RAMP
Wait patiently in line at the launch ramp. When it is your turn, stay in a single lane! Pull your rig onto the ramp and back the trailer until the wheels are at the water's edge. Be slow and deliberate. This boating activity requires a degree of precision developed only with practice. (Practice during low use times in a parking lot or other large area.)
The launch procedure can be accomplished solo, but it is much easier with two people. The second person signals the tow vehicle driver when the boat and trailer are in position. Place the tow vehicle in GEAR or PARK. Put the emergency brake on.
The second person can board the boat and lower the outboard or stern-drive unit to its normal operating position. Be sure the lowered unit is not touching the ramp.
The exhaust blower, on stern driven boats, must run for four minutes to clear any combustible fumes from bilge spaces. (Do this while the boat is being prepared for launch.) Sniff the engine compartment as an added precaution. If you smell gasoline fumes, DO NOT start the engine.
When given the signal, the vehicle driver backs slowly to a position where the engine's cooling water intakes are submerged. This assures the engine will receive adequate cooling water during warm-up, so no internal damage occurs.
Start the engine. Let it warm up. This prevents the engine from stalling at critical times when leaving the trailer.
Once the boat engine is running, check to see everything is operating properly. Ease the engine into and out of reverse a couple of times. If it doesn't stall, you are ready for the big step -- backing off the trailer.
Unhook the bow winch hook. If using a fixed bunk or adjustable trailer, have the tow vehicle driver back the trailer into the water until the boat begins to float free of the bunks or bolsters. This may mean backing the tow vehicle's rear wheels into the water. It should now be possible to shift the boat into reverse and slowly back off the trailer. If not, your helper might have to push back at the bow. If this effort does not help, have the boat driver sit in the stern of the boat while someone pushes the boat back. If none of these procedures work, the trailer and boat may need some adjustment.
A multiple-roller trailer differs somewhat in that as soon as the bow hook is released, the boat should roll off with very little effort. You need not back this type of trailer in nearly as deep as a bunk trailer. Use caution. The drive unit or outboard must remain in a slightly upright position so it will not hit the ramp as the boat rolls off the trailer.
Control the launch of a roller trailer with the boat's forward and reverse throttle. Once off, lower the drive unit.
ON THE WATER
Please ... don't abuse the courtesy dock areas! Courtesy docks at ramps are for loading or unloading people. Do not tie to these docks! Do not block the ramp from others who are waiting in line. Instead, quickly load additional people into the boat, then back the boat away from the ramp to await the return of the tow vehicle driver. When they return, ease to the end of the ramp dock to pick them up.
If you boat alone, pull into temporary areas away from the ramp before proceeding to park the vehicle and trailer.
RETRIEVING YOUR BOAT
For boats with additional operators, drop off a person who is experienced in trailering to pick up the vehicle and trailer while the boat and occupants wait offshore. Do not block a ramp with an unattended boat or vehicle.
The line is formed by cars and trucks with trailers, not by boats already in the water waiting to be retrieved. Please wait your turn in line.
When first in line, back the trailer into the launch lane. The boat operator can slowly drive onto the trailer. Secure the winch hook to the bow eye. Winch the boat up to the stop and secure the winch. Be sure the boat is centered on the trailer and the lower unit is raised before pulling out.
Proceed to an uncongested area of the parking lot to further secure the boat. Use additional tie downs and support for the motors lower unit. Remove the plug to drain out any water in the boat. Do not replace the plug if the boat is to be left out in the weather.
ADDITIONAL BOAT TIPS
o Beware of slippery conditions at launch areas.
o Check the local weather forecast before going out.
o Take time to help others if they are by themselves or having trouble.
o Be careful about leaving children unattended in vehicles on ramps while launching.
o Reminder -- trailer plates expire on the owner's birthday, consider buying a Florida Bass Specialty Plate for your trailer and helping support fish and wildlife conservation.
o Please, use common courtesy when launching and retrieving. Wait your turn, stay in one lane, keep the water lanes clear of your waiting boat until your trailer is in the water.
o Dispose of trash properly. Remember what you take out, you should bring back. Recycle plastic, aluminum and fishing line whenever possible.
Athour
Jan S. Roman
Always be careful with gasoline. Be sure to keep fuel lines tight and bilges clean at all times and use care when refueling. Whenever possible, motors and detachable gas tanks should be refueled when boat is at a dock or beached.
Do not overload your vessel. Maintain an adequate amount of free-board at all times.
Keep an alert lookout. Watch out for swimmers who may be outside designated areas or a diver down flag.
Watch your wake - it might capsize a small craft or disrupt anglers in the area.
Keep fire extinguisher and lifesaving equipment in good condition and ready at hand.
Obey the rules of the road. They are your water traffic laws.
When children are aboard a vessel, they should wear a life preserver at all times. State law requires children under six years old to wear life jackets at all times while the boat is underway.
If you should capsize, stay with the boat if it continues to float.
ADDITIONAL BOATING TIPS
Do not sit on or compress kapok life preservers.
Watch your footing when on board. Use the correct footwear to avoid slipping.
Watch the weather - be especially on the lookout for sudden storms.
If waves are high, head your boat at an angle toward the waves at a slow speed.
Distribute weight evenly in the boat - from side to side and from bow to stern.
Attend a boating safety class. Free boating safety literature is available at all Commission Regional offices.
Alcohol and boating do not mix.
Florida has a very strict law on operating a vessel while under the influence of alcohol or drugs. The law makes it crystal clear that drunken boating is a crime, and the drunken boat operator is a dangerous criminal.
The penalties include fines of up to $2,500, imprisonment of up to one year, non-paid public service work, and mandatory substance abuse counseling. The law provides for mandatory sentencing - the "suspended sentence" is a thing of the past for drunken boat operators. If a drunken operator kills another person, the penalty jumps to five years in a State Prison and a fine of up to $5,000.
Florida also has an "implied consent" law for boat operators. The law says that by operating a vessel, it is implied that you consent to chemical testing of your breath, blood or urine. If you cause death or serious injury, the police may use reasonable force to require you to submit to a blood test.
You hear a lot of talk about The Rules of the Road, but to many boaters these rules are Greek. The following reminders may help to make some sense.
- Red lights are always on left (port) side of boat and green lights are on right (starboard) side.
- When two boaters meet head on, both should steer to the right (starboard).
- When vessels are crossing, the boat on the right (starboard) has the right-of-way.
- When passing another vessel, the vessel being passed has the right-of-way.
- When boating in a narrow channel, keep to the right (starboard).
- Sailing vessels under sail have the right-of-way all the time.
- If you find yourself in danger, five short blasts of the horn will signal nearby boaters.
- Any action to avoid collision must be made early and be readily apparent to the other vessel.
A good rule of thumb is watch out for the other guy!
TRAILERING TIPS
BY BOATS EXPRESS , CLEARWATER ,FL
When you are pulling a trailer, one thing is undisputed. Trailer towing is a special situation which places demands on your driving skills, and on your tow vehicle. We have included a few basic tips that you should know in order to transport your boat and trailer safely, comfortably and without abusing the towing vehicle.
1. Weight Distribution.
- For optimum handling, the trailer must be properly loaded and balanced.
- Keep the center of gravity (CG) low for best handling.
- Approximately 60% of the boat's weight should be positioned on the front half of the trailer and 40% in the rear (within limits of tongue weight capacity).
- The boat should also be balanced from side to side. If the vessel has side mounted fuel or water tanks and only one side is filled, then this will lend the rig to maneuver poorly. Proper balancing will also prolong the life of your trailers tires.
- The boat should be firmly secured with at lease two ratchet type straps, attached from the trailer to the stern eyes and one ratchet type strap from the trailer (to the rear), to the bow eye to keep the boat from shifting forward. The bow eye should also be attached to the trailer's winch which is mounted forward of the bow.
2. Before Starting.
- Before hooking up to the trailer, make sure your tow vehicle is full of oil and fuel. Remember, it is a lot easier to fuel your tow vehicle at a gas station without a boat and trailer attached. You should also make sure the vehicle has plenty of water in the radiator and fluid in the transmission. Towing a large load can often times heat up a motor and strain a transmission. If you haven't already done so, look into installing a transmission cooler on your tow vehicle.
- Check the tow vehicle's tires for proper inflation. If you have a dual wheeled vehicle make sure there aren't any "hidden" flats.
- Connect the safety chains, and if equipped, attach the safety brake chain.
- Before starting out on a trip, practice turning, stopping and backing up your trailer in an area away from traffic. Make sure your mirrors give you ample vision around both sides of the boat and trailer and if not, look into getting modified mirrors for your tow vehicle.
- Check the trailer's turn signal, running and brake lights.
- Check the trailer's tires and make sure the lug nuts are tightened. A partially flat trailer tire will heat up and eventually disintegrate.
And, losing a wheel can prove to be disastrous, especially if the loose wheel strikes another vehicle.
- Double check that the boat is secured properly to the trailer.
- Check the reservoir on the trailer's surge brakes.
- Check the trailer's connection to the hitch to make sure it is fastened properly and latched. A pin, such as a cotter pin or a bolt
should be placed through the latch itself to prevent it from coming loose or being undone by vandals while the vehicle is parked.
- Check to make sure the trailer ball on your tow vehicle matches the coupler on your trailer. The three major sizes of trailer balls are:
1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". Make sure the ball is fastened properly to the tow vehicle and that the mounting will handle the capacity equal to or grater than the weight of the trailer and boat. If you have a receiver type hitch, make sure the insert (the bar the ball attaches to) is secured with a retaining pin and that it has a locking clevis pin on it.
3. Backing.
- Back slowly with someone outside the rear of the trailer to guide you.
-Place one hand at the bottom of the steering wheel and move it in the direction you want the trailer to go.
- Make small steering inputs....slight movements of the steering wheel result in a greater movement at the rear of the trailer.
- Use your mirrors. Always watch both sides of the trailer.
4. Braking.
- Allow considerably more distance for stopping with a boat and trailer attached.
- If you have a manual brake controller, "lead" with the trailer brakes first, if possible. To correct trailer side-sway, touch the manual
trailer brakes with out activating the tow vehicles brakes.
- Be sure to steer as straight as possible when stopping a rig. Turning while making a radical stop can cause the tow vehicles rear end to be pushed forward of the front...this is called "jackknifing".
5. Downgrades and upgrades.
- Downshifting assists braking on downgrades and provides added power at the drive wheels for climbing hills.
6. Parking with a trailer.
- Whenever possible, vehicles with trailers should not park on a grade.
However, if it is necessary, place wheel chocks under the trailer's wheels as follows:
a. Apply the foot service brakes and hold.
b. Have another person place the wheel chocks under the trailer wheels on the downgrade side.
c. Once the wheel chocks are in place, release the foot service brakes, making sure that the chocks are holding the tow vehicle and trailer.
d. Apply the parking brake.
e. Shift the transmission and make sure it is latched there. If your tow vehicle has a manual transmission, put the gearshift lever in reverse.
Note: With 4-wheel drive, make sure the transfer case is not in neutral.
- To start again.
a. Apply the foot service brake and hold.
b. Shift the transmission into park on automatic transmissions and neutral on manual transmissions.
c. Shift the transmission into gear and release the parking brake.
d. Release the foot brakes and move the tow vehicle uphill to free the wheel chocks.
e. Apply the foot service brakes and hold while another person retrieves the chocks.
7. Acceleration and passing.
- The added weight of the trailer can dramatically decrease the acceleration of the towing vehicle. Exercise caution.
- If you must pass a slower vehicle, be sure to allow extra distance.........remember, you also have the added length of the trailer
which must clear the other vehicle before you can pull back into the lane.
- Make your pass on level terrain with plenty of clearance.
- If necessary, downshift for improved acceleration.
8. Driving with and automatic overdrive transmission.
- With certain automatic overdrive transmissions, towing, especially in hilly areas with heavier boats, may result in excessive shifting between overdrive and the next lowest gear.
- If this occurs, it is recommended that the overdrive gear be locked out to eliminate the condition and provide steadier performance.
Note: See the tow vehicle's owner's manual for more information.
- When there is no excessive shifting, use the overdrive gear for optimum fuel economy.
- Overdrive also may be locked out to obtain braking on downgrades.
9. Driving with speed control.
- When driving uphill with a large boat, significant speed drops may occur.
- A speed drop of more than 8 to 14 miles per hour will automatically cancel the speed control device.
- Temporally resume manual control through the vehicle's accelerator pedal until the terrain levels off.
10. On the Road.
- After about 50 miles, stop in a protected area and double check:
a. Trailer hitch attachment.
b. Lights and electrical connections.
c. Trailer wheel lug nuts for tightness.
d. Engine oil.....check regularly throughout the trip.
- If a flat occurs on the tow vehicle, do not use a small "donut" type spare tire as this will drastically reduce the maneuverability of the
rig.
11. Launching the boat.
- Evaluate the pitch and length of the ramp as compared to the length of the boat and trailer.
- Line the boat and tow vehicle up with the ramp in a straight line.
- Prepare a bow and stern line for easy retrieval and make sure any plugs are installed prior to launching.
- Back down the ramp slowly, using someone at the back of the boat to guide you. Make sure the wheels don't drop off the end of the ramp.
- Submerge the trailer only as much as necessary to float the boat or roll it off, depending on which type of trailer you have. Keep in mind that if you have a multiple axle trailer, if you back one or more of the axles over the edge of a drop off, the remaining axles will be supporting the weight of the boat, unless, of course, the boat is supported by its own buoyancy.
- When the boat is clear of the trailer, make sure there is nothing still attached, such as the bow strap or cable, then slowly pull the
trailer from the water.
12. Retrieving the boat.
- Evaluate the pitch and length of the ramp as compared to the length of the boat and trailer
- Line the tow vehicle and trailer up with the ramp and back down the ramp slowly
- Submerge the trailer only as much as necessary to float the or roll the boat on, depending on which type of trailer you have. Keep in mind that if you have a multiple axle trailer, if you back one or more of the axles over the edge of a drop off, the remaining axles will be supporting the weight of the boat, unless, of course, the boat is supported by its own buoyancy.
- Gently drive the boat onto the trailer as recommended by the manufacturer using the trailer's winch as directed by the type of
trailer you own. - Once the boat is straight on the trailer, double check to make sure the bow is latched to the winch and all lines are
free from the undercarriage of the trailer.
- Gently pull the trailered boat forward, making sure not to spin the vehicles tires. Once the tires start spinning traction has been lost and it will be almost impossible to remove the trailer from the ramp. If the wheels start spinning, try to add more weight to the rear of the tow vehicle. Be careful about having people climb onto the bumper of a tow vehicle as this could create an accident.
- If the tires continue to spin, gently apply the parking brake while simultaneously applying power, a little at a time until the wheels grab the ramp surface, and the rig moves forward.
13. Parking the trailered boat.
- Once the trailered boat is ready to be parked, make sure you pick an area which is well lit and free from falling debris, like tree leaves and other things which can clutter up you boat.
- After situating the trailered boat in the spot where you want it, place chocks at the front and rear of all the tires.
- Carefully disconnect the trailer coupling from the hitch, and unplug all connections.
14. Long term maintenance.
- After each use, the trailer's brakes should be flushed with fresh water, regardless of whether you submerged it in fresh or salt water.
- Use a petroleum based solution to wipe the tires and prevent dry rot.
- Periodically grease the axle hubs, making sure not to overfill grease retaining hubs. This could blow out the "o" ring seals and promote premature failure.
More hot
news soon...
Storeage
your equipment!
And
Barefoot Instructions Tips!
Wet Suit
and Drysuit Storage
For some of
you, the coming of fall means great conditions and an extended waterskiing
season, but for others, it may mean your time on the water is coming
to an end. For the latter, this also means it is time to think about
properly storing your wetsuit gear until warmer weather creeps around
the corner next year. Proper storage is essential in preventing
seam damage.
How To Do
A Barefoot Start With A Boom
Below are tips
on how to do a successful barefoot start with use of a boom connected
to the side of the boat. The boom is the easiest method of learning
to barefoot waterski.
Difficulty:
Average
Time Required:
15 seconds
Here's How:
Attempt your first barefoot start on a calm day with glassy water.
Enter the water by holding on to the boom and walking your hands
on the boom until you reach about a foot from the end of the boom.
Have the spotter hand you a wakeboard or kneeboard.
Sit on the board, center of gravity towards the back of the board,
with your feet in front of you. Lean back and the tip of the board
should be above the water.
With your arms straight out hold onto the boom. Your legs should
be just slightly bent and above the water with your toes resting
on the front of the board.
When the barefooter is ready and in position the boat should then
slowly accelerate until the board planes and rides above the water,
your feet still above the water. The board should plane at about
10-12 miles per hour.
Ease your way to the front of the board to prevent the board from
bouncing.
As the boat speed reaches about 15 miles per hour bend your knees
towards your chest and slowly place your feet onto the water. Do
not attempt to stand up yet.
When the boat driver sees you have your feet on the water they should
then accelerate up to your barefoot speed, which is your weight
divided by ten and then add 20.
As the boat is reaching your barefoot speed slowly apply more weight
to your feet and stand to a barefoot positon; arms straight in front
of you, head up, feet shoulder width apart, and bend knees to a
90 degree angle.
As you stand up the board should should slide out from underneath
you.
For an easier approach, attach a tow rope handle to the end of the
boom, allowing the handle to act as a seat. The barefooter places
thier bum on the handle for added support.
Tips:
Always lean back. This helps prevent face plants into the water.
Wear a life jacket when learning the barefoot start behind the boat.
How To Do A Barefoot Start Behind The Boat
Below are tips
on how to do a successful barefoot start behind the boat using a
kneeboard or wakeboard on the initial start.
Difficulty:
Average
Time Required: 15 seconds
Here's How:
Attempt your first barefoot start on a calm day with glassy water.
Get in the water
behind the boat and take the tow rope handle and a wakeboard or
kneeboard with you.
Sit on the board
with your feet towards the boat. The tip of the board should be
above the water and pointing towards the boat.
With your arms
straight out hold the tow rope handle between your legs. Your legs
should be just slightly bent and above the water.
After the tow
rope is tight and there is no slack left in the rope the boat should
then slowly accelerate until the board planes and rides above the
water, your feet still above the water.
Ease your way
to the front of the board to prevent the board from bouncing.
As the boat
speed reaches about 15 miles per hour bend your knees towards your
chest and slowly place your feet onto the water. Do not attempt
to stand up yet.
When the boat
driver sees you have your feet on the water they should then accelerate
up to your barefoot speed, which is your weight divided by ten and
then add 20.
As the boat
is reaching your barefoot speed slowly apply more weight to your
feet and stand to a barefoot positon; arms straight in front of
you, head up, feet shoulder width apart, and bend knees to a 90
degree angle.
As you stand
up the board should fall down behind you.
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Below,
I will give you some tips on wetsuit and drysuit storage!
Wetsuits
Wetsuits are
probably the most vulnerable and sensitive waterskiing items to
care for. Always thoroughly rinse your suit with water afteruse,
especially those exposed to salt water. Salt water is great at corroding
your suit.
Never store
your wetsuit before it is completely dry. As a rule of thumb, turn
it inside-out temporarily after rinsing until it is completely dry.
After it is dry, turn it right-side-out to avoid stress on the seams
and material.
One option is
to lay the wetsuit flat and store it somewhere away from sunlight.
Another option is to hang the suit on a wide hanger. These hangers
may be purchased through a ski shop, or a sturdy suit hanger will
do also. The thicker the hanger, the better. The thin wire hangers
will cause creases and stretch the seams, which can result in cracks.
A third option
is to find a thick rod or pole that runs horizontally, like ones
found in your closet, and lay the suit at its waist around the pole.
Drysuits
Store your
drysuit the same way as described for wetsuits. There is one exception,
however. Many drysuits are made with metal or steel-like material.
Drysuits with this feature should be stored with the zippers open
to avoid the seal becoming set. Those suits with plastic Delrin
zippers should be stored closed to avoid kinks, which could result
in leaks.
Skis, wakeboards,
and kneeboards require care of their own. Of course, make sure they
are rinsed and dried. Store them in a cool, dark place, out of direct
sunlight. Many people put them underneath a bed because it is a
flat area, away from direct sunlight. If you have the facilities,
such as in a garage, another option is to store them horizontally
on an overhead rack. Regardless, store them out of the harm's way
where they will not get knocked over and scratched. Avoid leaning
them against a wall where they can tip over easily. The slightest
knick or ding could result in causing the equipment to function
differently. If possible, store them in the padded case the equipment
came with. If that is not available, wrap them in a protective cloth,
sheet, or blanket.
Proper storage
and care should yield your equipment extra years of life.
Find a boat
driver who has pulled barefoot skiers before.
Make sure you
have a spotter that can point out obstacles (sticks, logs) in the
water.
What You Need:
A boat that can hold the speed
A experience boat driver
A safe boom Kneeboard or wakeboard A spotter
Barefoot suit or shorts
The desire to be thrilled
TIP - Driving
for Barefooting
How do you pull a Barefooter?
So... you're on the lake with this new friend who happens to be
an avid barefooter. He grabs his barefoot handle and as he jumps
in the water he shouts something about "give me a medium -
fast - fast to 45, and don't hook me." So what do you do? Do
you act like you know what the heck he is talking about? How do
you pull a barefooter?
A barefoot pull is broken down into 3 parts or "calls:"
The first call indicates the amount of acceleration the barefooter
wants out of the hole, applying until he pops up onto the surface.
The second call refers to the speed the footer wants through the
stern rollers.
The third call tells you how to bring him up to his full requested
speed once he's cleared the stern rollers.
So, in our example above:
The first call was medium - this means that when the barefooter
says hit it you give him a medium acceleration out of the hole.
(In other words don't drag him out of the water but don't give him
full throttle either.)
The second call was fast - so, this guy wants you to accelerate
more after the initial pull out of the water.
The third call was also fast - meaning your friend wants you to
get him up to speed quickly once he's past the stern rollers. Assuming
you did all this correctly, your friend has just popped up onto
his feet at 45 mph.
But wait... What did that "but don't hook me" crack mean?
When you pull a slalom skier it is easy to drive a straight line
because you have the boat guide buoys to guide you. When you pull
a barefooter you have no boat guides to keep you going straight
and it is easy to drive in a curve if you're not careful. This curving
or "hooking" effects the wake's shape, making it harder
to cross. So, before you take off it's a good idea to pick a point
on the opposite shore and drive straight to it.
So you think
you have this 3-part pull down pat. You pull your buddy up with
a perfect medium - fast - fast. You have picked out a spot on the
far shore and you are driving a straight line towards it. Then your
buddy falls, so you whip the boat around and race back to him. You
are pretty proud of yourself and are shocked when your buddy is
mad. He says you threw rollers down the lake and now he'll have
to wait forever to take another run.
So, unless
he is hurt, when a barefooter falls bring the boat to a full stop,
then turn while in idle. That way you don't throw rollers down the
lake.
That's it! Don't
forget to have fun. If you make skiing work, it won't be long before
you put that boat up for sale.
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Greeze
your Zipper!
Zipper and
Seal Care
A zipper's
life will be prolonged if you lightly lubricate the teeth of the
dry zipper. A beeswax or parafin will also usually do for lubrication.
Storing Your
Waterskiing and Wakeboarding Equipment Away For The Winter
Let me first
talk about some general storage tips you should use on a day to
day basis, during the skiing season, and after. All equipment should
be stored out of direct sunlight when not in use. Sunlight can cause
warping and discoloration and fading on your boards and skis, and
also discoloration of your wetsuits, vests, and ropes. All equipment
should also be rinsed with water and dried before tucking it away
until the next use. This is especially true for equipment used in
salt water. Salt can speed up the corrosion process and leave you
with rust, worn down fibers on your vests and gloves, and the damaged
glue on your wetsuit seams. Simple use of mild soap and water should
clean the dirt off your equipment.
Now, let's discuss longer term storage during the winter. You should
pay the most attention to your wetsuits and drysuits. As stated
above, they too should be stored only after they have been rinsed
and dried. To maintain their form, an option is to store them with
stuffed newspaper inside them. This will prevent harsh creases in
the folds.
Tips:
Wear a life jacket, if you not have a barefoot suit that we prefeer
you to use, so you not have this "draging" when learning
the barefoot start behind the boat.
Find a boat
driver who has pulled barefoot skiers before.
Make sure you
have a spotter that can point out obstacles (sticks, logs) in the
water.
What You Need:
A boat
A driver
A spotter
Barefoot suit or shorts
Tow rope
Kneeboard or wakeboard
The desire to be thrilled
Before You Buy Slalom Water Skis.
This page article provides a wealth of important information to
help you purchase the proper slalom water skis for your needs. The
article is offered in .pdf format for easy printing.
Slalom Driving Tips.
Instruction on how to set your slalom skier up for a perfect tow
- on and off the slalom course.
There is often a lot more to skiing slalom than guiding the ski
in and out of slalom course buoys or in open water. To get that
perfect run, to reach that new personal best, or to tame a course
you need a driver that knows what they are doing.
Here are some slalom driving tips that will keep the skier and boat
driver happy:
Be sure the driver and the skier are in sync with the same hand
signals. Sign language behind the boat means nothing if those in
the boat can not translate.
After the skier yells "Hit it!" give them just enough
power to get them out of the water. No need to throw the throttle
down and yank the skier if it's not needed. After the skier levels
off quickly increase to the slalom speed.
Keep a firm grip on the wheel at the 10 o'clock position.
Keep your eyes on the horizon or on trees in open slalom driving.
Just like driving a car; you don't look right in front of the car,
but rather farther down the road. Pick a point on shore and drive
towards it in a straight line.
At the same time be on the look out for other boats, skiers, and
debris. You may want to designate someone in the boat to help you
look for obstacles.
If you're driving through a course line up with the middle of the
course. Try to anticipate and compensate for the skier's pull.
Gently maneuver the throttle. This is best done with the fingers,
and not the whole arm. To steady the movement of your arm you may
want to rest it on the arm rest, or the side of the boat.
Don't jerk the steering wheel, unless in the case of an emergency.
Use only slight adjustments to the steering.
Never add throttle before the skier reaches the buoy. Wait until
after the skier turns.
Pay attention to the RPM's, and not the speedometer. Reason being
is that when a skiers pulls away from the boat he tends to reduce
the boat speed. The RPM guage more consistent.
In open water driving, drive the boat back and forth across the
same path, therefore staying in smooth water that the boat has already
flattened out.
At the end of the run decrease the boat's speed slowly and make
a soft turn. No need to whip the boat around. This will cause unwanted
rollers.
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